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College of Industrial Arts 

1 he Texas State College for Women 

Denton, Texas 



APPROPRIATE DRESS FOR HIGH 
SCHOOL GIRLS 

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< OLLEGE BULLETIN 



NUMBER 74 



REVISION 



FEBRUARY 1. 1920 



Issued monthly by the CoUege of Industrial Arts. Denton, Texas. 

Entered December 17. 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class matter, 

under Act of Congress, August -24. 1912. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

RECEIVED 

FEB 9 1926 

DOCUMENTS DIVISION 



.<A 



Extension Service 



FACULTY COMMITTEE 

LIXDSEY BLAYXEY. M. A.. Ph. D.. LL. D., 

President of the College 

JESSIE H. HUMPHRIES, B. A., M. A.. 
Associate Dean of the College 

C. X. ADKISSOX. B. A.. 

Director. Department of Physics 

C. D. JUDD. M. A... Ph. D., 

Director, Department of History and Social Science 

WALLACE H. HOOK. B. S., 

Director. Department of Rural Arts 

* * * 



LILLIAX HUMPHRIES. B. S., 

Director, Extension Division 

* * * 



A Staff of Lecturers. Demonstrators, and Other Extension Workers 
Erom the College Faculty 



APPROPRIATE DRESS FOR HIGH SCHOOL 
GIRLS 



INTRODUCTION 



Only yesterday the high school girl's mother indulged in soli- 
tary sighs over selecting clothes, and today the daughter sighs 
with her. In other words, she has suddenly developed a great 
interest in the costumes she is to wear. She is no longer a child 
and she is not yet a grown-up. She must have clothes that do 
not obtrude themselves on her developing personality and at the 
same time make her feel comfortably confident among the smartly 
dressed women of her acquaintance. 

The general tendency of high school girls to overdress is caus- 
ing much agitation among mothers and teachers and even among 
the girls themselves. Consequently much is being done to inter- 
est high school girls in beautiful but appropriate clothes. 

At present unsuitable school clothes seem to prevail; though 
they are often pretty, they are often cheap. Spectacular clothes 
do appeal strongly to a girl's inexperienced judgment. It is easy 
to buy them, easier, perhaps, than to search for, or to make 
dresses in better and more individual taste. If the individual 
taste were strong, probably the more appropriate clothes would be 
discovered or somehow created, for distinctive clothes certainly 
exist. But the temptation to see herself looking like a debutante 
at a tea table instead of a school girl at a desk is stronger in the 
ordinary girl's heart, and she has not resisted it to a very notice- 
able extent. Therefore we must strongly protest that such clothes 
are out of place in a schoolroom. 

The keynote to modern costuming is appropriateness to occa- 
sion, station, and stage. And certainly the school room is not 
the place for fanciful clothes. Short sleeves do not look well; 
elbow length is permissible. The very short sleeve is really bad 
form in any office, shop, or school room, or on the street, and the 
sleeveless dress is unspeakably vulgar in such places. 



6 College of Industrial Arts 

Very -hurt, light, or bright dresses are unsuitable for most 
high school girls. So are fringe's, floating sleeves, panels that 
catch, exaggerated sashes, and meaningless trifles. .Moreover they 
distrad the attention of both the wearer and her associates. 

Few people have an unerring instinct for harmony in dress. 
The resl must rely on rules, principles, and suggestions from the 
experience of other people for rescue from commonplace and un- 
suitable clothes. 

It i- ju-t as easy to dress well as ill. since dress we must. 
Clothes should be beautiful, useful, and comfortable. Expensive 
dress is ool necessarily good. A limited income should not be a 
handicap; only more careful consideration is required. 

Dress should be a decoration ami never an ornamentation. It 
should never call attention to itself without reference to the 
wearer, but should add beauty by harmonizing texture, line, and 
color. Since clothes have a very p>yehological effect on one, they 
should be chosen in relation to the natural lines of the body (the 
proportions should obey those of the figure), to comfort and health 
of wearer, to background, to materials in use. and to color; above 
all they should rellect, to a reasonable extent, the character of 
the wearer. 

The long-limbed, short-limbed, small waisted, heavily built can 
wear the same style becomingly no more generally than they can 
wear the same color with the best results- One should consider 
the limitations of her natural outline and then adopt the prevail- 
ing mode to the besl advantage. There is no ornament like good 
arrangement, and with proper arrangement one can do much to 
soften or conceal defects and add charm to good features. 

Costume today is gradually being considered not as a fashion 
hut as ;i decoration in line and color. In our clothes, combining 
line and color, we are constantly creating designs. These designs 
are good or bad according to our knowledge or instinct. 

In the present vogue simplicity is the watchword, and the best 
dressed perx.n is the one who understands the art of elimination 
in costumes. Everything without purpose is without beauty. 
Each detail should have a reason for being, and should be a part 
of a harmonious whole. 




JTilPER DRESSES 





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WASHABLE CLASSROOM CLOTHES 



Appropriate Dress fob High School Girls 11 

Bows that do not tie. stuck aimlessly about a dress, clasps and 
"buckles sewn to parts they cannot unite, buttons that do not have 
the possibility of buttoning, and lines beginning nowhere and 
ending nowhere should be eliminated. Decoration in a costume 
should either accentuate or terminate a structural line in the gar- 
ment. Interest in the design can be achieved by variety in the 
spacing and the area. 

The girl of high school age has a courageous defense for her 
own very distinct opinions on dress : although she may listen with 
a tolerance when her mother points out the great diversity of 
types and ages, she will not for one instant grant that the elders 
viewpoint can be the right one. It is for arguments in negotiat- 
ing compromises that these suggestion^ and those that follow, are 
offered. 

CLASSKOOM CLOTHES 

Over dressing is always bad taste, but never more so than in 
the schoolroom. Suggestions for suitable dresses, however, should 
not meet with opposition in this age when clothes for every occa- 
sion are reduced to the simplest detail. 

School dresses should be of sturdy material and of good qual- 
ity, and should be cut in lines regulated by common sense, by the 
current mode, and by the individual girl. The texture and color 
of the material, as well as the design of the garment, should 
always enhance the wearer. But these dresses should never be so 
expensive that soiling them should cause spasms of the heart to 
the girl or to her mother. 

School dresses should be designed so that the wearer may have 
perfect freedom in the use of her body. If action is hampered, 
the frock is not correct. The one-piece dress in its varied designs 
has become almost universal because it is most comfortable to 
wear, and is becoming to nearly every individual. For cold 
weather, dresses made of serge, tricotine, poiret twill, flannel, and 
similar materials are appropriate and practical. They may be 
made distinctive by detachable collars and cuffs, bright wool em- 
broidery, decorative belts, or unusual cuts in design. Flannel and 
wool challis offer interest in fascinating colors and patterns. 
Eeady-made dresses are rather expensive, but with modern "fool- 



12 College of Industrial Arts 

proof patterns unusual and beautiful dresses can be made by 
those of little experience in sewing. 

No costume is quite so pleasing for school as the soft wool or 
linen dress with a washable guimpe. Because of the possibilities 
for variations it is suitable and becoming to a wide range of typesr 
and ages. The dress may be cul on simple lines with the interest 
created in the variety of blouses. The boyish sport blouse is for 
the Btraight-haired athletic figure, and the full embroidered 
peasant-like blouse is appropriate for her fluffy haired and more 
delicately featured classmate. 

These blouses should be of a washable material and design or 
their purpose is defeated. Washable sporl silks, madras, batiste, 
handkerchief linen, and voile are suitable materials and will 
be a boon to the young girl who still finds her collars and cuffs a 
responsibility for neatness. A jumper dress is an asset to a ward- 
robe because blouses of various weights insure comfort in ever- 
changing temperatures. 

The slip-on sweater of the variety not intended for engaging 
in sports is a popular ami practical schoolroom garment. It can 
In' had in beautiful ami becoming colors ami. if the contrast be- 
tween the color of the sweater and skirl is nol great, the costume 
is of good design. For personal comfort and for hygienic rea- 
sons a blouse should !>'• worn under a slip-on sweater, to say noth- 
ing of the fad thai the line- created are better. A sweater con- 
forms I'm, closely to the figure if a blouse is not worn underneath. 

The sweater with a plaid or striped front and a plain back is 
not good design because of the concentrated interest. Too often 
the backs of our costumes are neglected. Since the young girl 
cannol bave the whole world bowing at her feet at all times, she- 
will do well to consider the backs of each costume and its possi- 
bilities for interest. 

With the coming of spring and warm weather we would say 
that the hardy perennial among fabrics is assuredly gingham, for 
it "wears like iron"* and is always clean and wholesome-looking. 
These and other practical wash materials like linen, percale, and 
English print can be had in intriguing colors and patterns so 















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SIMPLE WOOLEN DRESSES 




SWEATEES AND SKIRTS FOR CLASSROOM WEAR 



Appbopriate Deess fob High School Girls 17 

that any type may find colors and design? that will not prove 
fatal to her coloring or figure. 

Plaids have a tendency to make a very stout figure resemble 
an "animated sofa." while stripes in the same material and used 
ingeniously may have a slenderizing effect; indeed, bold plaids 
or pattern on an extremely slender and delicate figure are over- 
powering: so they are in just as poor taste. Combinations of 
plain and figured materials may make the use of either of these 
materials possible for extreme figures. 

In warm weather brighter colors and gayer patterns than were 
suggested for winter are appropriate, but transparent materials 
that show underwear crumpled from the heat are always unsuit- 
able for the schoolroom or street. 

Underwear and accessories are not to be forgotten in the plan- 
ning of the school outfit. Simplicity is again the rule, tailored 
effects, and a minimum of lace and ribbon and embroidery. In 
their stead there should be correctness of cut. good workmanship, 
and quality of matt-rial that will stand wear and laundering. All 
garments should give freedom of movement and correct lines to 
the frocks worn over them. 

Shoes, stockings, and gloves also necessitate careful considera- 
tion. Bad weather is not unusual and high-heeled satin and 
patent leather slippers are not comfortable or hygienic; therefore, 
they are inappropriate on the street or at school. Shoes should 
be of the best of leather with substantial soles and wide, flat 
heels. Shoes cut on the lines of Oxford ties, one-strap pumps, 
or their equivalent are appropriate, practical, and hygienic. Cor- 
rect stockings to accompany these shoes are of heavy ribbed Eng- 
lish cotton or lisle, wool sport hose, or silk for more formal wear. 
Whether they be socks or full length stockings must be deter- 
mined by the length of the legs to wear them. For either case 
they are best in black or brown for school. 

Gloves should be cut on plain and mannish line of suede, calf- 
skin, or dogskin for everyday wear. Xatural chamois is also 
appropriate. It has the advantage of being washable and the 
disadvantage of having to be washed frequently. Without gloves 



18 College of Industrial Aets 

no one look- well groomed, and they protect the hands even i» 
mild weather. 

THE CROWNING GLORY 

Hair i> bo tangled with history and romance it is not amiss to 
discuss it and it- present mud.-. The heads of the present gener- 
ation, both young and old, have been victims of the shears, with- 
out reserve. Nevertheless, lovely hair continues as the perfect 
frame for a beautiful far.-. Some few who indulge in "bobs"" 
Buffer as deplorably as did Samson from Delilah's shears, hut many 
more find their shorn locks quite as becoming as their more 
troublesome long ones. Most of those enjoying this newly-ac- 
quired freedom declare emphatically that the bob will never he 
renounced. But the untiring interest in new things and the lin- 
gering traditions about hair as a feminine aspect may cause the 
most defiant shingle to undergo a restoration of hair nets and 
hair pins in an incredibly short while. About that no one knows I 
ther detail adds as much <>r detracts as much from any 
- appearam - hair. Even short hair must be consid- 

ered seriously if it i- properly eared for and arranged becomingly. 
I . -• one should consider the modeling of the face, full 

view and profile, the neck, and the shape and back of one's head. 
Then the hair Bhould he cut along lines that -nit the individual 
and the -hap.- <>( the head. 

Those fortunate ones blessed with curls can let them follow 
their natural tendency, but straight hair should have careful 
study. It i^ always best from the standpoint of the hair and the 
locks of the wearer to leave the hair natural, faults from arti- 
ficially curled hair an- never very satisfactory. Aside from the 
injury hot irons do the hair, one has a tendency to wonder if 
there an- as many wrinkles in the hrain as in the marcel wave. 

By studying the fa-.- from side to side, the modeling, the set- 
ting of the eyes, the breadth and form of the brow, and the length 
and inclination of the nose, one knows not to accentuate a square 
chin by repeating the same line in hangs, or draping limp hair 
from a middle part around a thin face. The contour of hair r 
long or short, should never distort the shape of the head. A per- 
fectlv hald forehead is rarely becoming, hut if bo, is very distinc- 




A STKEET ENSEMBLE 




A "HOME DKESS 



Appropriate Dress eor High School Girls 23 

tive. A few soft hairs over the brow will lend charm to even a 
perfect foreheadL 

Combs of the correct shape worn in the middle back of the 
head add height to a figure, while short, broad combs at the side 
of the head tend to make a slender face seem wider. 

Hair around slender faces should always be soft and low to 
conceal the angular lines of the face and make it seem wider. 
Around a broad face hair should be arranged in a soft line, but 
reasonably flat, and if lung, in a high coiffure. 

Elaborate coiffures and ornaments in the hair are not appro- 
priate at school or on the street. Bobbed hair in any line is a 
relief after the almost architectural arrangements which prevailed 
before the advent of short hair. 

CLOTHES FOE THE STEEET 

If a girl is convinced in favor of simple clothes for school, 
she, with little argument can recognize the inappropriate:, ss 
elaborate ones for the street. Here, she should want to be as in- 
conspicuous as possible and will choose street clothes in conserva- 
tive colors and design. This does not mean that her street 
clothes are not to be even more interesting than her school things, 
but they should not be a blatant note as she mingles with people 
in public places. 

It is very comforting to youthful pride to know that in clothes 
grown-up tendencies are repeated in lines, colors, and fabrics. 
A popular and practical costume for all ages is the three-piece 
or ensemble suit. This combination of a dress and a harmoniz- 
ing coat gives a correct appearance on the street, and with the 
coat removed presents its wearer suitably attired for the theatre 
or an afternoon part}-. 

Accessories have much to do with the smartness of one's gen- 
eral effect. It is not hard to choose a pretty hat or a striking 
- - ; r a pair of smart-looking shoes. But generally the pretty 
hat is impossible with the striking dress and has no relation to 
the smart-looking shoes. Hats should be chosen in relation to 
the costumes with which they are to be worn; they generally con- 
tribute more to the costume if thev are of a contrastins- color. 



24 College of Industrial Arts 

The liar calls particular attention to one's head or face, which 
should !>«• the most interesting part of the body. 

In the spring dark silks replace the wools and are of similar 
design. Light materials and colors in conservative designs are 
appropriate tor summer clothes. Harmonious accessories should 
be chosen for each of these different types of costume. 

One's "home" clothes are just as important as one's work 
clothes, for they are often one's "play" clothes. Here, individu- 
ality can be expressed in color and design and materials. Silks 
in becoming colors and made on the lines of modified sport clothes 
are very useful. These may be worn in the afternoon or even- 
in-. .M<ne elaborate clothes are necessary in some wardrobes. 

Evening dresses demand careful consideration. It is better to 
reral very simple ones than one elaborate creation. Crepe 
de chine, chiffon, and georgette crepe in light colors and made 
<>n that precious fundamental — simplicity — are appropriate. If 
38 - for dancing, the back, which is the part of the cos- 
tume in greatesl evidence, should not be aeglected. Flounces, 
cascades, berthas, and the like make graceful lines on dancing- 
6gures. Black should never be chosen by a young person for 
evening wear. It demands the jewels and make-up to be worn 
only by an older woman. 

For comforl fur coats are now worn by young girls, although 
only a few years ago they were considered too extravagant and 
therefore in poor taste. Muskrat, beaver, raccoon, and similar 
durable furs arc most suitable. 

SPORT CLOTHES 

Spori clothes must be considered in two groups — those to be 
worn while one is actually engaging in athletics, and those modi- 
tied clothes for onlookers which are generally adapted for street 
and for the schoolroom. 

For tennis and golf a short skirt which allows perfect freedom,, 
either pleated or wrap-around, may be worn with a sport blouse 
and sweater or jacket. Skirts buttoned to the blouse insure 
against blouses pulling out. So docs the combination sport shirt 




CLOTHES FOE ATHLETICS 




SCOUT CLOTHES F<>!.' SI'ECT.VI < 



Appropriate Dress for High School Girls 29 

and teddy-bear. A close fitting hat with a brim should protect 
the eyes. Special shoes are needed in each of these games. 

The most perfect details in sport costumes are usually found 
along the side lines rather than among the participants in games. 
Brilliant color can be used with the background of sky and land. 
Fancy sweaters, scarfs, woolen hose, and brogues have assets in 
that they are comfortable, youthful, healthful, and economical. 
Sport clothes have an interest in themselves, regardless of our 
growing enthusiasm over athletics. 

CLOTHES FOE IRREGULAR FIGURES 

The current silhouette demands an almost fleshless body and 
makes us all take inventor}' of our figures. By the proper use of 
line and color attractive results in slenderizing can be achieved 
and "without dieting or exercise." If a figure is really fat, never 
try to make it look thin by compressing the body or confining the 
clothes in such a way as to outline the figure clearly. Long lines 
and what dressmakers call an "easy fit" will help to camouflage 
bulk. Solid colors in neutral tones have a slenderizing effect. 
Stripes, checks, plaids, spots, and figures of any kind draw atten- 
tion to dimensions. Tunics, wide- belts, fancy cuffs, round or 
fluffy collars, pockets, and horizontal trimming must be carefully 
avoided on any stout figure. 

If the attention is drawn in a path from the face down the fig- 
ure, we have a tendency to disregard the sides of the figure. A 
very long line is created by a cut in a garment from one shoulder 
to the opposite hip, and down the side front to the hem. Light 
vests may be used to hold the interest in the center of the figure. 
Clinging materials of a dull surface are most becoming to stout 
figures. Materials of high lustre create pattern in high lights. 
Matching shoes and hose should always be chosen in order not to 
accent the feet of the stout figure. 

The extremely slender girl finds her difficulties less grave than 
those of her too plump classmate. It is never wise to try to make 
a thin figure look other than thin. Fullness, extra material, and 
widening devices are likelv to make the figure seem slimmer bv 



30 College of Industrial Arts 

contrast. Though certain details in costumes make them more 
becoming, the limitations are few. 

Curved lines and horizontal lines have a softening effect on the 
angular figure. Large collars, wide belts, and sashes, over- 
blouses, capes, and decorative sleeves are all becoming to the 
slender figures. Satin, taffeta, organdie, soft silk with fullness, 
and velvet are appropriate fur the slim. Pattern and colors, not 
over-powering, are tdi this more fortunate type. Much could be 
said about neck lines and hat brims, but it is best said in a 
diagram. 

The person with a receding chin should always wear a collar 
to (ill in the back of the neck, if possible, and should choose hats 
with some brim. The poke bonnet type is never becoming. 

Because one hardly imagines a Juliet in glasses, young girls 
who arc compelled to wear spectacles are rather sensitive about 
the clothes they wear on account of them. Street and sport 
clothes do n« >t presenj a great problem. Evening dress is more 
difficult because one must give up all attempts to imitate types. 
The Carmen or Pierette characteristics must retire to the back- 
ground, [f wears glasses, hat- are harder to choose. The 

flower-decked garden hat is of too great a contrast. Sturdy ma- 
terials and simple trimmings are most becoming. A directly up- 
turned brim gives undue prominence to the glasses. A down- 
turned brim throws a shadow on the glasses and keeps any con- 
spicuous play of lights off the lenses. 

Wide shoulders can be apparently diminished by the use of a 
raglan sleeve or an arm hole cut in from the normal arms' eye- 
line at the end of the shoulder. Narrow shoulders can be made 
to Beem wider by a drop shoulder line. Large hands can be dis- 
guised by long sleeves and cuffs that cover part of them. 

THE GRADUATING DEESS 

Since graduation terminates the high school career and is its 
most important event, a discussion of a suitable dress is in order. 

For this event, perhaps more than for any other, the high school 
girl has been over-dressed. She is not yet a debutante and the 
occasion is informal. Dresses should be chosen accordingly. 




A YOUTHFUL PARTY DRESS 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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